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Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is the best method for spraying Shadow in lettering?
A: The gun must be held quite close and held at an angle to cover sides of letter and then held straight to cover center. It is impossible to shadow lettering correctly with can or gun ten inches from letters.
Q: What could cause Shadow or Hilite adhesion failure?
A: Three conditions. 1. Stone surface is wet. 2. Gun is held so far away (especially in hot weather) the solution is practically "dry" when it hits the stone surface. 3. Over application. Any time some Shadow or Hilite can be pulled from stone when removing the stencil, FAR too much has been applied. The bond must be on the stone with no continuous film between stencil and stone. Properly applied no Shadow or Hilite will ever "peel."
Q: How does a new man guard against applying too much Hilite?
A: Do some practicing on a cardboard to get the stroking rythm and STOP WHEN THE PANEL LOOKS WET - NOT WHITE. The white will apear after the solvent has evaporated.
Q: A few weeks ago we placed a Hilited panel monument and the panel has turned a brownish mess. We need help.
A: Whoever cleaned this panel after the stencil was removed did a poor job, leaving dissolved stencil cement on the panel for sun to work on. Rewash with your regular cleaner, followed by water.
Q: What is the difference between Hilite and Lithco White?
A: Hilite is designed to produce a white contrast similar to steeling - never an opaque coating. If an opaque film is required, for instance a white letter in a polished surface, use Lithco White.
Q: Why is a special Shadow necessary for marble?
A: Marble does not shatter under the blast as granite does.
Q: Apparently the use of Lithco Colors for "Natural Flower" carvings and color Lithipicture is steadily increasing. What is the potential for color in memorial art?
A: This depends upon the art talent available to a firm. Any shopman can successfully use flat color (no blending or shading) for floral or pictorial carvings. The hilighting, blending, and shading of the picture is the artists touch. Lithco Colors are not easy to use if color blending is required (no problem with flat coloring). Artist oil colors dry slowly by oxidation while Lithco Colors dry by solvent evaporation and, as the solvent leaves, they tend to become "sticky." They should be used out of the bottle, with the cap left on between brush dips. Color blending and shading should be done as fast as practical. These materials are made for weathering permanency and some sacrifice must be made in ease of application. The secret of selling color - these carvings with incised outlines are everlasting - the surface color only accentuates their appeal.
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